Surabaya’s harbour is the explanation for surabaya’s existence, and the best place to begin a tour of the city. At the old docks at kalimas river, long lines of Buginese boats moor. Workers stream up and down the gangplank, unloading timber, oil, copra, and other produce of the outer islands onto bullock carts. A few years ago, these ships would return to the islands half-empty. These days, enormous amounts of cement and other building materials are shipped out, testimony to the success of the Government’s development projects, the ferry to Madura leaves from here, and ancient men wearing the loose, black clothes and head-dress characteristic of the Maduranese can be seen sitting ontheir haunches, patiently smoking a kretek while waiting for a ferry outside the modern, air-conditional terminal.
There is nothing picturesque about the freighters that pull up at Tanjung Perak. Costing billions of dollars to build, these enormous structures are larger than some office buildings. The Indonesian navy uses Tanjung Perak as a base, and permissionis needed to visit the site.
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