The Chinese have always been a force to reckon with in the commercial scene of Surabaya. And historic China Town is found around Klenteng Dukuh, the red temple with Chinese characters for ‘Peace’ and ‘Prosperity’ emblazoned in gold above burning candles and incense in Jl. Kapasan. The Chinese of Surabaya married and mingled with the local population while retaining their own identity. This gave birth to a new, hybird culture, complete with its own cuisine and customs, in which Chinese and local elements were fused. Many of the pupeteers and musicians who perform in temple, and the traders selling snacks and incense for offerings nearby, are dark skinned and speak only javanese and Indonesia, although they are still referred to as Chinese. Sign of the Chinese veneration for their deceased relatives can be seen in the ‘ash houses’, places built for the worship of ancestors, often occupying a whole building on a piece of real estate worth hundreds of thousands of dollars. These buildings can be recognised by the Chinese characters and burning incense placed outside them.
Another Chinese shrine, Hok An Kiong, was built in the 18th century and is located on Jl. Selompretan. This shrine is dedicated to the safety and well-being of sailors, and offerings are made here to propitiate the sea.
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